Match of the week

Bagna Cauda and Arneis

Bagna Cauda and Arneis

I could have chosen any one of the pairings at the ‘An A to Z di Vini Divini’ wine dinner at Bocca di Lupo last week as my match of the week but this is one of the most useful ones as bagna cauda, an anchovy, garlic and olive oil dip with raw vegetables isn’t the easiest dish to pair.

The dinner was a collaboration between one of my favourite food writers, Rachel Roddy and chef Jacob Kenedy - a six course menu with really interesting wines chosen by Bocca di Lupo’s sommelier Phill Morgan.

Bagna cauda is a speciality of Piedmont so it was appropriate to drink a white wine from the region with a 2022 Arneis Le Tre from Malabaila di Canale. You can buy it from the St Andrews Wine Company for £15.95 and $21.99 at Perrine Wine Shop in Atlanta.

Sometimes the dish can be quite punchy* but Rachel’s version contained milk butter and cream which really showed off the wine’s delicate aromatic character.

You can find the recipe in the charmingly illustrated booklet they’ve produced to go with the promotion which you can buy from their website for £6.99 with £1 of the cover price going to the children’s charity Magic Breakfast. You can try the pairings individually or as a tasting menu until the end of January.

*In which case you might want to drink a fruity young Dolcetto with it as Marc Millon recounts in this lovely post 

For other anchovy pairings see The best wine pairings for Anchovies.

I attended the dinner as a guest of Bocca di Lupo.

Anchoïade and manzanilla

Anchoïade and manzanilla

I’m beginning to wonder if there’s anything manzanilla doesn’t pair with - or fino, come to that. Of course, there is but both sherries do seem to be brilliant at dealing with the tricky customers of the culinary world, especially pungent salty ones like anchovies and capers.

I had this particular combination at the recently opened Rockfish Grill in Bristol - anchoïade is a creamy anchovy pure from the south of France which is generally served with raw vegetables or crudités. The usual wine match would be a Provençal white or rosé but I really loved this combination with chilled tangy sherry.

It makes me think that manzanilla would be a feasible - though unconventional - partner for that Piedmontese speciality bagna cauda. It also pairs well with olive-based spreads such as green and black tapenade (especially the green version) and creamy, smoky purées such as brandade (salt cod) and baba ganoush which is made from grilled or roast aubergines.

Image © foodandmore - Fotolia

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